Shanghai fashion week: gender lines blur as designers embrace ‘boys wearing girls’ clothes’

Tight green sweaters, furry shoulder pads, and buckled kiltie loafers dominated the runways at Shushu/Tong’s Shanghai Fashion Week show this season, a deliberate departure from the brand’s traditionally feminine aesthetic.

A shift in strategy, not a market expansion

Founder Liushu ‘Shushu’ Lei clarified backstage that this wasn’t a foray into menswear; it’s a playful exploration of the concept of “boys wearing girls’ clothes.” He admitted the men’s line remains a relatively small component of the overall business.

The trend reflects a wider challenge facing domestic menswear designers in China. As male consumers increasingly gravitate towards sportswear and established global brands, the local scene struggles to gain traction. ‘It’s a pretty difficult time for menswear,’ observes Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development at ENG Concept Store, highlighting the dominance of European labels like Our Legacy.

The rise of leisurewear and ‘gorpcore’

The shift is driven in part by the decline of streetwear, which has ceded ground to leisurewear and ‘gorpcore’ – a trend characterized by the trifecta of Arcteryx, Salomon, and Lululemon, collectively known as the “three treasures” of China’s middle class. Zemira Xu, founder of Tube Showroom, explains a strategic pivot away from streetwear to lifestyle-focused brands, recognizing evolving consumer preferences.

Sports brands lead the charge

Domestic sportswear giants Anta and Bosideng are already reaping the benefits. Anta reported record revenues of RMB 80.22 billion ($11.7 billion) in 2025, while Bosideng recently hired menswear designer Kim Jones to head up its Areal sub-brand. Garçon by Garçon, for example, is witnessing significant growth in its outerwear categories – attributed, in part, to the inherent versatility of jackets and outerwear in male styling.

A retreat to functionality and feminine appeal

However, this trend is proving discouraging for many traditional menswear lines. Faced with low return on investment, numerous Chinese brands are prioritizing womenswear or emphasizing function, performance, and ease of wear. Li Gong, founder of Shanghai label 8ON8, notes that Chinese men increasingly favor professional sportswear brands, alongside everyday commuting attire. 8ON8, initially focused on tailoring, has recently shifted toward womenswear to better serve its existing female customer base – a decision partly influenced by the growing distinction between menswear and womenswear, despite its limited impact on male consumer demand.

Adapting to a changing market

The brand’s overseas business, exclusively menswear, continues to perform well in markets like Japan and South Korea. Element, a multi-brand boutique stocking international labels, has cultivated a loyal male following over a decade by prioritizing practicality, texture, and comfort – 60% of its customer base being male, with 40% female. Recognizing the nuances of the Chinese market, founder Benny Zhu emphasizes the importance of understanding local lifestyles and consumption habits, highlighting differences between cities.

Strategic partnerships and brand messaging

To capture male attention, Xu recommends brands invest in behind-the-scenes activations – showcasing not just runway shows, but detailed information about brand concept, fabric, and silhouette. ‘Male consumers are more like brand disciples,’ she argues, ‘they want to understand the brand’s ideas and beliefs.’

Opportunities amidst the competition

Despite the challenges, designers like Untitlab and Structura are finding opportunities in the post-streetwear landscape. Untitlab’s viral Fisherman boots and Structura’s minimal sportswear offer a departure from the norm. Maison Margiela’s recent Shanghai runway show, featuring menswear, womenswear, and its Artisanal line, alongside Ralph Lauren’s expansion into Chengdu, demonstrates a willingness to explore new avenues—though sustained success remains uncertain.

A long road ahead

Experts believe these tentative steps into menswear represent a long-term trend, rather than an immediate shift. ‘It’s still a trial,’ notes Xu. ‘Fashion editors and KOLs provide positive feedback, but the overall picture in China is markedly different.’ Ultimately, brands must adapt to the evolving demands of the Chinese male consumer, prioritizing functionality, lifestyle, and a deep understanding of local preferences.