Fashion month's reset: dior still reigns, milan steals the spotlight

The usual whirlwind of Fashion Week descended this fall/winter, but the energy felt different. After a season of creative director debuts shook things up, this cycle presented a more focused, if slightly quieter, landscape. While blockbuster moments were scarce and a packed global calendar diluted visibility, the usual power players held their ground, generating a collective $755 million in earned media value (EMV)—a 14% dip from last spring’s showing and a slight 1.3% decrease year-on-year, according to Lefty and Karla Otto’s analysis.

Paris maintains its grip, despite a dip

Paris, as always, remained the dominant force, pulling in $403.6 million in EMV, despite a 19% decline from the previous season and a 20% drop annually. The numbers reflect a broader slowdown: 26,377 posts and 4,571 influencers, down 7% and 8% respectively. However, Dior’s stellar performance underscored the city's continued allure. The house commanded a staggering $88 million in EMV on Instagram alone, and $51.6 million on Weibo, accounting for roughly 22% of the total.

What’s striking is the sustained impact of Asian talent. Thai actor and model Kornnaphat Sethratanapong (Orm) led the pack with an impressive $21 million EMV across just 17 posts. He was followed closely by Thai-Chinese actor Sirilak Kwong ($15.5 million) and Blackpink’s Jisoo ($12.5 million)—all three exclusively repping Dior and yet dominating the influencer landscape.

Chanel's boutique buzz and milan's unexpected surge

Chanel secured second place, with Matthieu Blazy steadily building momentum. The brand’s $55.8 million EMV represents a 73% year-on-year increase, fueled not just by the show itself, but by a frenzy around the new spring ready-to-wear collection. “It really was the topic of conversation,” noted Hetty Mahlich, a fashion editor. “We were all texting each other, telling each other which stores had what. That was literally the conversation everywhere.” Her own first-ever Chanel boutique purchase—a pair of mint green embossed croc pumps—is a testament to this phenomenon.

But the biggest surprise of the season? Milan. The city’s Fashion Week generated a remarkable $260.2 million in EMV, a 6% increase from spring and a significant 37% jump year-on-year. Gucci led the charge with $54.5 million, boosted by Thai actor and model Kanawut Traipipattanapong’s $6 million contribution. The anticipation surrounding Demna’s official runway debut, following a film and lookbook reveal, clearly translated into palpable excitement, evidenced by the presence of Emily Ratajkowski ($1 million EMV), Demi Moore ($827,000 EMV), and Georgina Rodríguez ($4.6 million).

Beyond the runway: storytelling takes center stage

The data reveals a broader shift: brands are extending the life of their collections through deeper, more intentional storytelling. Dior's interview series with Bella Freud’s Fashion Neurosis, featuring Jonathan Anderson unpacking the collection's inspirations, generated $938,000 in EMV alone. This highlights the growing value of designer-led narratives. Jenny Tsai, founder and CEO of WeArisma, notes that while EMV remains a crucial benchmark, “what we’re seeing now is a shift in how that value is built.” YouTube, though still a smaller slice of the pie, saw an 184% year-on-year surge, as brands partnered with higher-caliber creators.

The rise of streaming stars and authentic partnerships

Viral television continues to shape front-row strategy. Hudson Williams, star of Heated Rivalry, generated $1.1 million in EMV for Balenciaga, driving 30% of the total. Brands are reacting quickly to capitalize on these cultural moments, sometimes betting on talent before they even reach Western shores.

The dominance of Asian talent—particularly from Thailand and South Korea—is undeniable, generating 42% of fashion month's total EMV. This isn't just about visibility; it’s about genuine alignment. “As long as they genuinely support the brand, then it makes sense,” says Lister. The return of established figures like Madonna at Dolce & Gabbana further reinforces the need for longevity and a deeper connection.

The numbers speak volumes: the fashion landscape is evolving. It's less about fleeting trends and more about considered narratives, authentic partnerships, and the power of storytelling—a shift that is reshaping not only how brands operate, but also how we, as consumers, engage with fashion.